Yonehara Beach

Yonehara campsite

The campsite is positioned directly behind a beach in a wooded area which provides partial shade for campers. Prices are very reasonable and the site is equipped with basic toilet, shower and washing facilities. The site is popular throughout the year but particularly so in the warmer months. Although people of all ages stay at the site it has a youthful feel to it and apparently there are days when parties can go on until the early hours during the summer.

You don't require a booking to use the campsite as there should be adequate space, even during the summer months. The cost of pitching a single tent is reasonably priced at ¥400 per occupant. If you can't find anybody to pay on arrival at the site simply pitch your tent in an available space. At some point somebody will spot the new pitch and wander over to charge you.

Reef snorkeling

The accessibility of the reef, which begins just a few meters from the shoreline, means that snorkeling can be enjoyed by most people who possess reasonable swimming abilities. The reef along this coastline teams with life, and the moment you put your head under the water you'll feel like you've stepped into another world. There is a wide enough variety of sea life here to interest the most experienced of snorkelers and divers, including those who are used to more adventurous offshore diving. Shower facilities are also provided at the rear of the beach, but don't expect any hot water.

At the back of the reef you'll see waves breaking on most days. At this point the ocean abruptly drops off into far deeper water. Some swimmers choose to snorkel here as there are free-diving opportunities along with the chance to see larger sea creatures. However, for most people the reef will suffice and extreme caution should be exercised when approaching the drop off (see precautions below).

Snorkelers should also consult tidal information before planning a trip. During low tide the sea can drain from the reef to such a degree that it is difficult to swim at all. At such times much of the life will have retreated to deeper waters too, making the experience less enjoyable

Beware strong currents

When describing the hazards it's all too easy to give the impression that Yonehara beach is a deathtrap which nobody in their right mind should visit. However, the truth is that if reasonable precautions are taken, Yonehara provides an excellent opportunity for experienced swimmers to enjoy snorkeling in a beautiful coral reef .

The beach is quite popular, so it's unlikely that you'll be alone, however, there are no lifeguards. Yonehara is also well known for its currents which will happily carry you out beyond the reef and into the deep water beyond, and it's a sobering fact that this area of coastline has claimed many lives over the years.

There are signs positioned in the parking areas which display the pattern and of currents along the shoreline. They are in Japanese but the information can be clearly understood from the arrows which indicate the origin and direction of flow. The golden rule is basically to avoid swimming near these areas. Look out for 'no swimming' signs - however these may not be in English so it may be an idea to check with a Japanese speaker.

Most swimmers will find that there's more than enough to see within the confines of the reef, however, if you do decide to venture beyond the reef into the deep water beyond then extreme caution should be taken. The drop off is abrupt, and large waves can appear out of nowhere. During a failed free-diving mission I witnessed a friend, an experienced swimmer and diving instructor, take a severe beating from waves while trying to cross this natural boundary. The best advice is to avoid the edge of the reef; the risks are higher and the Japan Coast Guard is already busy enough saving swimmers who have pushed their limits during the high season.

My final word of advice is that you should seek a tour guide if you feel any way uncomfortable about entering the ocean alone. There are plenty on the island and some combine kayaking with snorkeling to enhance the experience.

Gettinging to Yonehara Beach

Yonehara beach and campsite is positioned on the northern coast of Ishigaki, not far from the Yaeyama palm tree grove. Even if you don't have a car it is easily accessible via bus (timetables can be found here).

There is a car park adjacent to campsite's west entrance which is sometimes free but in the high-season there may be a charge of about ¥500. Some people push their luck and park in the campsite but be prepared for a stand-off with the guy who runs the place if he thinks that your car is in the way.

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